History of Leith, Edinburgh

The oldest part of Leith is that bounded on the south by the Tolbooth Wynd and on the west by the Shore and the North by the Broad Wynd, and on east by Rotten Row (now Water Street). This quarter was anciently called the clouts or closes, from its being much intersected by lanes and alleys. During the Regency of Mary of Lorraine, there was established in this district a sort of exchange where the merchants of the period would transact business.

This place was called the “Burss” being a corruption of the French word “Bourse” which in that language designates a place appropriated to the purpose just mentioned.

This resort Maitland ( a Leith Historian) conceives was situated at the lower end of the Paunch Market now Queen Street, a conjecture which he considers is strengthened to use his own words by “the remains of three pizzas on the southern side either for shelter or shops” The spot on which Maitland alludes is the south corner of Queen Street immediately underneath the Old Shipping Company’s office (became a Labour Exchange and is now a Italian Restaurant) which was formerly supported by pillars, thus forming a pizza below. These pillars are now built in and for that shop lately occupied by Mr Milner druggist, and are therefore no longer visible from the outside.

To this brief mention of the “Burss” we may add some short account of other two memorabilia of the olden time of Leith. These are “Little London” and the “Timber Bush” or as it was called in the past “Timber Bourse” meaning a Timber Mart, which it acquired from it being appropriated for the reception of Timber into Leith. This yard occupied a large piece of ground bounded by Bernard Street on the South, The Shore on the west, the sea on the north and extending eastwards towards the Naval Yard. It was originally enclosed by a wooden fence but in 1644 it was surrounded with a strong wall by order of the Edinburgh Council. This ground though covered in houses and wholly changed in its appearance still retains its ancient name.

For details about “Little London” please see article on the site, our author continues……

On the north side of St Andrew Street also know as the Dub Row and nearly opposite the foot of the Sheep’s-head Wynd there is a short lane which leads into an extremely filthy court dignified with the imposing name Parliament Square. Miserable however as the place now is it is in the immediate vicinity and is indeed formed by a very old house which still exhibits many traces of splendours nothing short of regal. Amongst these are some old oaken chairs on which are carved though but clumsily crowns, sceptres and other royal insignia. The whole building in short both from its very superior external appearance and the elegance of its interior decorations is altogether remarkable. Every apartment is carefully and according to the taste of the times elaborately adorned with ornamental workmanship of the various kinds on the ceiling, walls, cornices and above the fire-places. In one chamber the ceiling which is of a pentagonal form and composed of wood is covered with the representations of birds, beasts, fishes etc. These are much obscured with smoke and dirt as to be traced with difficulty. As this house therefore has been unquestionably been either the residence of some great personage or appropriated for some great purpose and as it forms as I have said a part of what is called Parliament Square I am disposed to think that the august name has not been bestowed on it either in derision or undeservedly and I consider it by no means improbable that if it was actually the residence of the Regent lennox who lived in Leith for some time and during his Regency this may have been the place where his Council met and that is why the small court obtained the name it now bears.

The house of which I have been talking stands nearly in the centre of that range of buildings on the Coal Quay (now Coal Hill) extending from the foot of the Tolbooth Wynd to the foot of St Andrew Street. This pat of the town was anciently called St Leonard’s. It may be readily distinguished from the houses with which it is now associated by the superior elegance of its front. Not the least remarkable part of this structure is the unusually broad and commodious stairs by which its different flats are entered from the street and which differing in thus respect so much from most other old houses sufficiently establishes the fact of its having once been a mansion of no ordinary character.

(Editors note- A picture of the above building can be seen if you go to “Some Views of Leith” on this site).